Tanner's Oath Wood & Leather Salve
Tanner's Oath Wood & Leather Salve
BUNDLE & SAVE
Couldn't load pickup availability
- American express payment method
- Apple pay payment method
- Bancontact payment method
- Bizum payment method
- Diners club payment method
- Discover payment method
- Google pay payment method
- Master payment method
- Mbway payment method
- Paypal payment method
- Satispay payment method
- Shopify pay payment method
- Visa payment method
-
Ordered
- - -
Order Ready
- - -
Delivered
Tanner's Oath Wood & Leather Salve
Brings back a dry, grey gunstock and stiff, faded leather, from the holster and the gun case to the saddle and the camp sofa, without stripping, sanding, or touching the original finish.
- Feeds dry, grey, scratched stocks without a refinish. Not a refinish. No stripping, no sanding, no stain.
- Softens stiff, cracked leather (holsters, gun cases, saddles, boots, the recliner) without darkening it or rotting the stitching.
- No petroleum, no silicone, no turpentine, no scent.
- Buffs dry in ten minutes. Doesn't stay tacky like linseed or go plastic like a hard finish.
- Wipes on thin over checkering. Won't harm blued steel where the forend meets the barrel.
Stocks, slings, boots and entire gear brought back by the hunters who own them
Their photos, their words. Nothing stripped, nothing sanded, the dings still where they were.
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Dale W. – Wisconsin “My dad’s a huge diesel fan, so I got this for him after he spotted it in a local sale. He put it together over a weekend and couldn’t stop talking about the engine detail and chrome trim. The build took him about two evenings, and he said the instructions were clear enough to follow. Now it’s on display in his man-cave, and he shows it to everyone. Great gift for anyone who loves old-school trucks.”
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Terry M. – Pennsylvania “This is my grandfather’s 16-gauge special—he used to talk about that Peterbilt all the time. I ordered it as a surprise, and when he opened the box, he said it looked exactly like the one he ran in the early 2000s. The chassis detail and chrome parts are really nice, and the decals went on smooth. He hasn’t finished the whole build yet, but he said it’s worth every penny. Quality model and a very thoughtful gift.”
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rick L. – Ohio “I’ve built a few truck models before, and this one stands out for its level of detail. The frame, axles, fuel tanks, and engine parts all feel solid. I spent about six hours on it across two days, and the end result looks like a real showpiece. The only thing I’d suggest is having extra small tweezers handy for the tiny parts. Highly recommend for adult hobbyists.”
Bring Grandpa's Rifle Back Without Refinishing It
Grey, dried-out stock. A sticky wrist from the foam case. A sling stiff as a board. Sound familiar?
Everyone at camp has the same two answers: strip it and Tru-Oil it, or leave it alone and lose it to the safe. There's a third one, and it's what gunsmiths and cabinetmakers did before hard finishes existed. Clean the wood. Feed it. Seal it thin.
Tanner's Oath™ is that third answer, and it is not a refinish. Nothing gets stripped, sanded, stained, or coated. The original finish stays the original finish, and the dents and handling wear stay exactly where they've always been.
Wipe it on, wait ten minutes, buff it off. Not eight coats over a winter. Back in the safe, or back in the field, before opening day.
Feed the wood. Keep the history.
A grey stock isn't missing its finish. It's missing the oil that evaporated out from under it. Linseed feeds it but never dries. Tru-Oil dries but sits on top like plastic. Neither one does both.
Tanner's Oath™ does.
First, cold-pressed jojoba, shea, and hemp seed oil go through the existing finish into the wood and put back what dried out. That's why the color returns instead of getting painted on.
Then, beeswax and carnauba set a thin layer on top that buffs dry and helps shed rain and hand oils.
Boiled linseed
Feels right on the hand. Never fully dries. Barely registers on the Forest Products Lab moisture scale.
Tru-Oil
Dries hard. Goes glossy. Looks like plastic on an old gun, and it's a commitment you can't wipe back off.
Tanner's Oath
Wipes on, buffs dry in ten minutes. No sandpaper, no stain. Repeat it before every season for as long as you own the rifle.
One jar. The wood, the leather, and the years in between.
Stocks and forends
Slings and scabbards
Saddles and tack
Holsters
Gun cases
Hunting boots
- Dry, grey, faded stocks and forends
- Handling wear and light scratches on the wrist and comb
- Sticky, grimy old finishes from cases and gun socks (wipe first)
- Stiff, dry, cracking slings, scabbards, and cases
- Hunting boots, cartridge belts, chaps
- Holsters and shooting slings: light coat only, so they keep their shape
What's in the jar, and what isn't
So it won't rot the linen stitching on an old sling.
So a gunsmith can still work on the stock later.
So nothing carries downwind.
It goes on clear and deepens the color the way a wet rag does, then settles back as it buffs. On a light stock, test the inside of the forend first.
Stock, then sling
Wipe it down
A buildup wipe or a rag with mineral spirits takes off the grime, old oil, and case-foam residue.
Thin coat, with the grain
Over checkering, use almost nothing, or tape it off.
Wait ten minutes
Let it go into the wood. Get the sling out while you wait.
Buff dry
A clean cloth, with the grain, until nothing comes off on your hand.
The sling
Warm it in the sun for a few minutes so it drinks. Rub in a thin coat, wipe off what's left, let it sit overnight. Off the rifle. A damp sling stored on the gun is how barrels and buttplates rust.
The only thing you can't undo is a refinish
Linseed that stayed tacky. Tru-Oil that went glossy. A $30 bottle with a sixteen-page manual. A gunsmith quote higher than the rifle is worth. You've heard all of it at camp.
This doesn't strip, sand, or stain, so there's nothing to undo. And if the stock and the sling don't come back, you get the money back within 30 days. Full refund. No asterisk.
Questions from camp
Q: Will it darken my stock, or my leather?
A: On wood it deepens the color the way a wet rag does while it's on, then settles back as it buffs. On leather it's the same: no dye, no permanent shade change like heavy conditioners. Test the inside of the forend, or the back of a sling, and look at it dry.
Q: Will it leave the stock or the leather tacky, or attract dust?
A: No. Wipe it on thin, wait ten minutes, buff until nothing comes off on your hand. What's left is a dry wax finish, not a film. Tackiness only comes from putting on too much and not buffing it off.
Q: Will it fill or soften the checkering?
A: Not if you keep it thin. Use almost nothing over checkering, or tape it off. Heavy oil is what fills the points. A thin wipe of wax doesn't.
Q: Can I use it over an oil finish? Over Tru-Oil, varnish, lacquer, or shellac?
A: Yes. It goes on top of the finish you have and doesn't strip, sand, or stain it. On a shellac milsurp stock, clean first and test a hidden spot, since old shellac is soft.
Q: My stock is sticky, grimy, or greasy from a foam case or old cosmoline. Will it fix that?
A: Clean first, then feed. A buildup wipe or a rag with mineral spirits takes off case-foam residue and grime. Cosmoline has to come out of the wood before anything goes in; the salve won't pull grease. Once the stock is clean and dry, yes.
Q: Does it work on synthetic or laminate stocks?
A: Laminate, yes; it's wood under a finish. Synthetic, no. Plastic has nothing to feed. Save the jar for the sling.
Q: What about the metal: bluing, the buttplate, rust?
A: If it gets on steel, wipe it off. It's plant oil and wax, nothing that attacks bluing. It doesn't remove or prevent rust; that's steel wool and gun oil, same as always. And don't store a damp sling on the gun.
Q: Does it fix cracks or gouges?
A: No. A crack needs glue, a gouge needs filler. This is for the finish and the leather. If it needs a gunsmith, it still needs a gunsmith.
Q: Will it lower the value of an original-finish rifle?
A: It doesn't strip, sand, stain, or add a hard finish, so the original finish is still the original finish. Collectors should still test the inside of the forend and go thin.
Q: How is this different from boiled linseed, Tru-Oil, or Kramer's? And what about rain?
A: Linseed feels right but never fully dries and barely seals against water. Tru-Oil dries hard and glossy and looks like plastic on an old gun. Kramer's wants a week of daily coats. This wipes on, buffs dry in ten minutes, and the wax helps water bead instead of soaking in. It's not a polyurethane seal; wipe the gun down after a wet day like you would anyway.
Q: Why pay this when linseed is five dollars a quart?
A: Because the quart is still in your garage, half full, and the stock is still grey. Linseed never dries, Tru-Oil goes plastic, and a refinish is $600 and six weeks. One jar does every wood stock and every piece of leather you own, and if it doesn't bring them back, you get the money back.
Q: Will it soften a shooting sling or a holster too much, or rot the stitching?
A: A light coat conditions without collapsing the shape; if it has to stay stiff, use less and wipe off what's left. A carry sling that's gone hard can take more and sit overnight. And no petroleum means no rotted stitching; petroleum products and neatsfoot compound are what eat linen thread.
Q: How often do I apply it, and how much does one rifle take?
A: Once before season, once after. More if it lives in the truck. A fingertip does a stock; a jar does the safe.
